Dalyan is mad about carettas

As we pulled away from Buried Treasure Cove, we left behind the pure turquoise shallows, and sailed into an ultramarine Mediterranean Sea. The reason why this area of southwest Turkey is called the Turquoise Coast is as clear as those crystal waters. We arrived in Göcek marina, after traveling from America, Australia, Canada, and the U.K., for a Peter Sommer Travels eight-day sailing holiday and archaeological tour. Our gulet, the Almira, cruised eastward on a “Blue Voyage” route to the village of Üçaz, where it will stop, turn, and head back to Fethiye and journey’s end.

Geological and Archaeological Beauty

This stretch of coast is also called the Lycian Coast, after the proud, ancient civilization that once flourished here. Persian, Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman civilizations have since come and gone, but the natural beauty of the mountains, forests, coves and beaches has survived it all. Home to many myths and legends, the area is associated with historical characters like Alexander the Great, Mark Anthony, Cleopatra and St Paul.

Rock formations resemble gigantic barnacles, and the spread-out string of islets could be the Loch Ness monster. Geological forces manipulated the earth like Play-Doh and erosion continues to sculpt interesting formations. Approaching Gemiler or St. Nicholas Island, the submerged quays show how earthquakes and, to a lesser extent, time have rearranged the shoreline, causing subsidence in many places, and upheaval in others.

Saint Nicholas (aka Santa Claus), to whom the island is dedicated, was born in Lycia where he later became Bishop of Myra in the 4th century. Ruins of buildings and churches show how prosperous this pilgrimage site once was. A climb up the steep, rocky slope leads to a 5th century basilica at the top.

Dr. Nigel Spivey, our tour guide, is a professor of classical art and archaeology from Cambridge University. He helped us to picture the church as it was originally: walls and roof intact, fine mosaic floors. As we walked back downhill, after admiring the views, raucous cicadas screeched their evening chorus. The setting sun flooded the eastern sky with color; painting limestone hills multiple shades of orange.

Our days settled into a pattern of a pre-breakfast swim before moving on to the next bay or cove. Otherwise, it was reading, painting, or simply sunbathing on deck and enjoying the beautiful surroundings. As aromas wafted up from the kitchen announcing that the chef was preparing lunch, there was time for more swimming, snorkeling, or kayaking. Appetizing meals were prepared from local ingredients. There were colorful and flavorsome fruit and vegetables, olives, yogurt, succulent chicken, and fresh fish.

Lycian Legacy

Late afternoons are cooler and a good time to visit archaeological sites in places, all with two names—one ancient, the other modern. In Ka?, white-washed houses punctuated by masses of magenta bougainvillea cascade down the hillside to the harbor. Uphill, past a wall decorated with murals, a beautiful sea view greets the audience in the 4,000-seat Hellenistic theater of ancient Antiphellos. It is obvious the minute we sit on the hard stone seats why, in ancient times, it was necessary to bring cushions along with the picnic for a day out at the theater.

Lycians left behind different tomb types, dotted about the town. A determined little old lady, wearing baggy floral trousers, insisted on showing us a shortcut to “The Belly-dancers Tomb,” which had an unusual frieze of dancing figures carved around the top of the chamber. A road lined with carpet and jewelry shops, lead to another impressive monument, the “Lion’s Tomb.” A couple sat at the base, watching their child having fun exploring inside.

While walking around the curved harbor, the Almira was visible from different angles—a handsome, traditional Turkish wooden boat, or gulet, with a broad beam and wide deck, built locally from pine and mahogany. Green- and white-striped cushions added a stylish air. She has a large sunbathing deck at the front, seating and dining area to the rear, and accommodates a maximum of 16 people in 8 comfortable cabins below.

When arriving in Üçagiz, old Teimiussa, some of the monumental 2,500-year-old sarcophagi by the harbor looked as if they were only built 50 years ago. Sunken tombs line the shoreline; many more climb prominently uphill. Nigel explained why: “Wealthy Lycians invested far more in their tombs than in their homes.” It is possible this can be attributed to the fact that one of their national deities, Leto, was worshipped as the “Guardian of the Tomb.”

Romantic Castle

Looking upwards from the jetty at Kale (castle), the fortified walls of ancient Simena, reused in Roman and Byzantine times, were silhouetted against the evening sky. Climbing up to the acropolis, and the smallest amphitheater in Lycia with only 400 seats, we passed the ruins of Roman baths, a gift from the Emperor Titus.

That night we dressed up for a romantic dinner on shore at the Lykia Restaurant. The owners’ little grandson proudly brought bread to the tables, right at the water’s edge. Starters were a delicious selection of meze (appetizers), followed by individual grilled fish, and ending with segments of sweet watermelon.

Later, back on the gently swaying boat, we sat on deck and chatted into the night. The stars were out and a half-moon cast its silvery light on a dark, rippling sea. Waves lapped against the sides, sounding like a lullaby. This is what babies must feel like, I thought, being rocked in a cradle.

The next morning, as we sailed slowly past the ruined, sunken city of Kekova, roofless walls and staircases rose out of the water. We docked in Kalkan after lunch and were whisked up to Xanthus, capital of the Lycian federation of independent city-states. It is a huge archaeological site—with a Lycian and a Roman acropolis, churches, and a necropolis outside the walls.

“From distant Lycia and the whirling Xanthus came the Lycians led by Sarpedon…” Homer also tells us in The Iliad that the brave warrior died fighting for Troy during the Trojan War in the 12th century BC. Archaeologists believe they have found an area here, dedicated to Sarpedon’s cult. Looking down from the Acropolis today, the river still flows between fertile green riverbanks, though in Sarpedon’s day, of course, polytunnels did not exist.

After our final swim on the last day, we reluctantly left the incredibly blue, buoyant sea. We docked at Fethiye, where Amyntas’s Tomb is the most impressive of the rock tombs, built into the hill overlooking the town. There was just enough time for a quick tour of the bazaar downtown before returning to the Almira for the goodbye feast on board.

Turtles and Tombs

I arranged a trip extension, so after the departure of the rest of the group, I continued my travels to Kano Otel, a hotel in the small town of Dalyan, on Lycia’s western border.

Iztuzu Beach, a short boat ride away, is famous for its natural beauty and for being a protected nesting site for Loggerhead Turtles (caretta caretta). On the front page, the Dalyan Times reports, “Caretta caretta turtle lays its eggs in daytime!” A photograph shows the turtle digging its nest on the beach in broad daylight. This was very unusual, as the turtles are known to only nest at night.

Dalyan is mad about carettas, with turtle souvenirs on sale everywhere. Mrs. Yalman served cute, little, turtle-shaped home-made biscuits at the hotel. A substantial breakfast is served on the terrace by the waterfront, but it cannot compete for attention with the superb views.

Directly across the tall reed beds in the Dalyan River are the magnificent temple tombs cut into the rock face at Kaunos. At night the tombs look magical, illuminated and reflected in the water.

The next morning, a duck came up to the waterfront with her brood of six ducklings for bits of bread. For a scary moment, it looked as if a crocodile was emerging from the water, but it was only the first of two freshwater Nile Turtles arriving to breakfast on cheese.

Archaeologist and tour leader Serdar Akerdem has been excavating at Kaunos for many years. He pointed out various interesting facts and features as he showed me around the archaeological site. On the acropolis, the well-preserved amphitheater has the only surviving example of a special, swiveling system for changing stage backdrops.

He also explained that this was a large port with two harbors in classical times, until they gradually silted up and the reeds took over. Credit crunches are nothing new here. Records exist showing that during an ancient credit crunch port taxes had to be lowered.

Iztuzu or Turtle Beach is special. One side of the long wide strip of sand faces the Mediterranean and the other, the Dalyan River. Standing there, looking out to sea, I contemplated everything learned and enjoyed on this journey. Far in the distance, a gulet is on its way. Could it be the Almira on her next “Blue Voyage?” Myrisa Luke caught the travel bug at an early age. She is a travel journalist whose work has been published in the U.K., America, Australia, and Canada. In addition, her travel features and photographs have appeared regularly in The Epoch Times.

Tags: blue voyage, caretta caretta, dalyan, fethiye, lycian, lycian way, olu deniz, oludeniz, santa claus

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